Why Reproofing is Key to Maintaining Oilskin Coat Waterproofing

Oilskin coats, also known as waxed cotton or tin cloth jackets, have been a rugged outerwear staple for over a century. Invented in the early 1900s, these hardy work coats are made from tightly-woven cotton duck fabric that has been impregnated with a paraffin-based wax. This wax coating gives the material its waterproof and windproof properties, making oilskin jackets an ideal choice for outdoor work and recreation in wet conditions.

However, the waterproofing on oilskin coats doesn't last forever. With regular wear and exposure to the elements, the wax coating will gradually wear off over time. As the wax degrades, the fabric loses its water-repellency and the coat's ability to keep the wearer dry is compromised. This is where reproofing comes in.

What is Reproofing?

Reproofing is the process of reapplying a fresh layer of proofing wax to the surface of an oilskin garment to restore its waterproofing capabilities. The new wax fills in cracks and thin spots, and re-seals the fibers to prevent water penetration. Reproofing extends the functional life of the coat and returns it to nearly-new condition in terms of water resistance.

Why is Reproofing Important?

There are several key reasons why reproofing is essential to properly maintaining an oilskin coat:

1. Restores waterproofing: The most obvious benefit of reproofing is that it replenishes the waterproof coating on the fabric. Without periodic reproofing, an oilskin coat will eventually start to "wet out", or absorb water, rather than repelling it. Keeping the coat's water-repellent properties intact is critical for staying dry and comfortable in rainy or snowy conditions.
2. Prevents fabric degradation: In addition to making the coat leak, a worn out wax coating leaves the underlying cotton fabric vulnerable to damage. Without the protective wax layer, the fibers are more susceptible to mold, mildew, staining, and abrasion. The rot-resistant properties of oilskin depend on the wax coating, so replacing it helps the fabric itself last longer.
3. Lengthens garment lifespan: With proper care, a high-quality oilskin coat can easily provide 10-20+ years of reliable service. However, the coat must be regularly reproofed to reach this life expectancy. Neglecting to rewax will cause the coat to prematurely fail by allowing water in and speeding up fabric wear. Reproofing keeps an oilskin coat performing year after year.
4. Preserves breathability: Oilskin fabric is valued for being waterproof yet breathable, meaning perspiration vapor can escape through the pores in the weave. This breathability depends on the wax finish remaining intact. As the wax degrades, the pores get clogged with dirt and fibers swell from moisture exposure, reducing breathability. Regularly refreshing the wax maintains the fabric's optimal breathability.

When to Reproof an Oilskin Coat

How frequently an oilskin coat needs to be reproofed depends on several factors, including how often it's worn, in what conditions it's used, and how it's stored and cleaned. In general, most oilskin coats benefit from annual reproofing at minimum, with hardcore users reproofing as often as 3-4 times per year.

Signs that it's time to reproof an oilskin coat include:

• Fabric absorbing water rather than beading it off
• Coat feeling damp or clammy on the inside
• Musty odors that may indicate mildew growth
• Stiff, crunchy texture, especially if stored folded
• Cracked or flaking areas of wax, or shiny spots indicating wax loss

If an oilskin coat is exhibiting any of these symptoms, applying a fresh coat of proofing wax will restore it to peak function and weather resistance. The reproofing process itself is relatively straightforward, involving heating the wax, applying it to the fabric, and carefully removing the excess. This can be done at home, though professional reproofing services are also available.

The Bottom Line

At the end of the day, reproofing is an absolutely essential part of owning an oilskin coat. The waterproofing these coats are famous for just doesn't hold up without regular maintenance. Applying a new layer of proofing wax, at least once per year, will keep your oilskin coat beading off rain, breathing well, and lasting for many years to come. A little preventative measures goes a long way in maximizing the lifespan and performance of these classic outdoor garments. Don't neglect this critical step if you want to keep your oilskin coat in tip-top shape!