Oilskin vs. Waxed Cotton: Which is Right for Your Outdoor Needs?

When choosing outerwear for outdoor adventures, two classic materials often come to mind - oilskin and waxed cotton. Both have a long history of use in harsh conditions thanks to their weather-resistant properties. But what exactly are the differences between these two fabrics, and which one is the best choice for your particular needs? Let's take a closer look at oilskin and waxed cotton to help you make an informed decision for your next jacket or coat purchase.

What is Oilskin?

Oilskin, also known as oilcloth, is a cotton fabric that has been treated with oil to give it water-repellent qualities. Historically, linseed oil was used, but modern oilskins are often treated with petroleum-based oils or waxes. The oil treatment permeates the cotton fibers, making them impervious to moisture.

One of the earliest uses of oilskin fabric was for sailor's hats and capes in the early 1800s. The oil treatment helped protect sailors from the wind and waves while at sea. Oilskin later gained popularity for use in outdoor work clothing like jackets, aprons, and trousers. Today, oilskin is still used to make durable outerwear for activities like fishing, hunting, horseback riding, and motorcycle riding.

So what makes oilskin a good choice for outdoor gear? A few key features:

• Water resistance: The oiled treatment causes water to bead up and roll off the surface of the fabric rather than soaking through. This keeps the wearer dry in wet conditions.
• Breathability: Unlike fully waterproof fabrics like PVC or rubber, oilskin has some degree of breathability. The natural gaps between the cotton fibers allow a small amount of airflow and moisture vapor to pass through. This helps prevent overheating and clamminess.
• Flexibility: Oilskin fabric remains soft and flexible, unlike stiff plastic rain slickers. This allows for freedom of movement, which is important for physical outdoor activities. The fabric drapes and conforms to the body.
• Durability: Oilskin is a sturdy, tear-resistant fabric thanks to the densely woven cotton base. The oil treatment helps protect the fibers from abrasion and wear as well. With proper care, oilskin gear can last for many years of rugged use.

Some potential downsides of oilskin:

• Oil odor: Oilskin may have a noticeable oily smell, especially when new. The scent fades over time but never completely disappears.
• Staining: The oil may rub off onto other fabrics, potentially causing stains. Care must be taken if wearing oilskin around upholstered furniture, car seats, etc.
• Crocking: With heavy wear, the oil treatment may start to come off in some areas, leading to discoloration and uneven coverage. Periodic retreatment of the fabric may be needed.
• Limited washability: Oilskin garments cannot be run through a regular washing machine cycle without risking removal of the oil treatment. Spot cleaning or airing out is recommended instead.

What is Waxed Cotton?

Waxed cotton is quite similar to oilskin in many ways, but it uses a wax treatment on the fabric instead of oil. Originally, paraffin wax was applied to cotton sailcloth in the mid-1800s to create a waterproof fabric known as "waxed canvas." Like oilskin, waxed cotton fabric was adopted for use in outerwear and gear because of its weather resistance and durability.

The process of waxing cotton fabric involves applying a paraffin or beeswax coating to one side of the fabric. The fabric is then heated to melt the wax and allow it to penetrate into the fibers. As the wax cools and hardens, it creates a barrier against water on the surface.

Some key characteristics of waxed cotton:

• Good water resistance: The wax layer causes water to bead up and roll off, keeping the fabric underneath dry. However, with extended exposure to heavy rain, some water may eventually seep through, so it's more water resistant than fully waterproof.
• Breathability: Like oilskin, waxed cotton has some breathability thanks to the natural weave of the fabric underneath the wax. It allows a degree of airflow to help manage heat and moisture.
• Molding/shaping with wear: As a waxed cotton garment is worn and broken in, the wax surface takes on character marks and creases. It molds to the wearer's shape over time, leading to a personalized fit and unique patina.
• Classic aesthetics: Waxed cotton outerwear has a timeless, traditional look. The waxed surface ages gracefully and takes on an attractive weathered appearance.
• Abrasion resistance: The wax helps the cotton fibers withstand wear and tear from rough use. Waxed cotton is a popular choice for things like motorcycle jackets, work aprons, tool bags, etc.

Some drawbacks of waxed cotton:

• Needs periodic rewaxing: With use, flexing, and abrasion, the wax surface will eventually rub off and wear away. Rewaxing the fabric is necessary every so often to maintain water resistance. Some see this as simply a part of owning waxed cotton gear, though.
• Potential for stiffness: In cold temperatures especially, waxed cotton can feel quite stiff and rigid compared to other fabrics. It needs to be "broken in" somewhat.
• Heavier weight: The waxed treatment adds some weight and bulk to the cotton fabric. Waxed cotton outerwear will be heavier and less packable than a synthetic rain shell, for example.
• Scratchy/sticky texture: The waxed surface has a tacky, slightly rough texture that not everyone enjoys. It can feel clammy against bare skin and may "grab" dirt and lint.

So Which One is Right for You?

Ultimately, the choice between oilskin and waxed cotton comes down to your personal needs and preferences. Both are great options for weatherproof outerwear with classic rugged style. Here are a few factors to consider:

• Wet weather performance: Both offer good water resistance for activities in rainy or damp environments. Oilskin has a slight edge in shedding water quickly.
• Breathability: Both fabrics allow some degree of airflow, but neither one is extremely breathable. If you tend to overheat easily, you may want to consider other options like a nylon rain shell.
• Care and upkeep: Oilskin requires less frequent retreatment than waxed cotton to maintain performance. However, oilskin can't be fully washed, only spot cleaned. Waxed cotton is somewhat easier to care for overall.
• Fit and comfort: Oilskin drapes closer to the body, while waxed cotton has more structure and can feel stiffer initially. Try on garments in person if you can to assess fit.
• Style: The weathered patina that develops on waxed cotton is very attractive to many people. Oilskin maintains a more consistent matte appearance. Consider which look you prefer.
• Intended use: Where and how will you use the garment? Factors like packability, weight, potential for staining/marking, etc. may influence your choice.
• Availability: Both fabrics can be somewhat specialized, so your options may be limited based on what brands and styles are available to you.

In summary, you really can't go wrong with either oilskin or waxed cotton for foul weather protection, durability, and classic outdoor style. Weigh the various characteristics we've covered to help you decide which fabric best suits your needs and preferences. A quality well-made garment in either material can provide many years of serviceability in challenging conditions.

Happy adventuring!