If you own an oilskin jacket, you know it's a valuable piece of outdoor gear. Oilskin, also known as waxed cotton, is a durable, water-resistant fabric made by infusing cotton with oil or wax. This treatment gives the fabric its signature weather protection and makes oilskin jackets ideal for activities like farming, fishing, hunting, and hiking in wet conditions.

However, the waterproofing properties of oilskin don't last forever. With wear and exposure to the elements, the wax coating gradually wears off and needs to be replenished through a process called reproofing. Regularly reproofing your oilskin jacket maintains its water resistance and breathability while also extending the life of the garment.

Let's Dive Into the Key Benefits of Reproofing

  • Restoring Water Resistance

The primary purpose of reproofing is to restore your jacket's ability to repel water. As you wear your jacket, the fabric flexes and bends, causing the wax to gradually crack and flake off. Dirt and grime also build up on the surface, further degrading the waterproof coating. If you've noticed your jacket "wetting out," or absorbing rather than shedding water, it's time for reproofing.

The reproofing process involves heating the jacket, applying a fresh layer of wax dressing, and working it into the fabric. This new wax coating fills in the cracks and crevices and provides a smooth, water-resistant surface. A high-quality reproofing wax, properly applied, will make water bead up and roll off the jacket just like it did when the jacket was new.

  • Maintaining Breathability

In addition to providing water resistance, the wax coating on oilskin is also semi-permeable, allowing air and moisture vapor to pass through. This breathability helps prevent the buildup of sweat and moisture inside the jacket during physical activity. However, as the wax wears off and dirt accumulates in the fabric, the jacket's breathability decreases.

Reproofing opens up the pores of the fabric and allows it to breathe again. During the reproofing process, dirt and grime are cleaned away, and the new wax coating is worked into the fibers of the fabric, restoring its original breathability. A breathable jacket is more comfortable to wear and helps regulate your body temperature in changing conditions.

  • Prolonging the Life of Your Jacket

Oilskin jackets are built to last, but they do require regular care and maintenance to reach their full lifespan. Reproofing is an essential part of this maintenance routine. In addition to restoring water resistance and breathability, reproofing also helps to condition and protect the fabric.

As the wax coating wears off, the fabric becomes more susceptible to damage from UV radiation, dirt, and abrasion. Regular reproofing provides a sacrificial layer that takes the brunt of this wear and tear, helping to preserve the integrity of the fabric underneath. Think of it like waxing your car - it protects the paint and helps your vehicle look newer for longer.

Reproofing also helps to prevent the fabric from drying out and cracking. The oils in the wax dressing condition the fibers, keeping them supple and preventing brittleness. A well-maintained oilskin jacket can easily last for decades with proper care.

  • Refreshing the Look of Your Jacket

In addition to the practical benefits, reproofing can also refresh the look of your oilskin jacket. Over time, fading, staining, and dirt can make your jacket look tired and worn. Reproofing helps to even out the color and give the fabric a rich, lustrous appearance.

The reproofing process typically involves a thorough cleaning of the jacket before the new wax is applied. This cleaning helps to remove ground-in dirt, stains, and odors, restoring the fabric to a cleaner state. Once the new wax coating is applied, the jacket will have a refreshed, refined look - not quite like new, but with an attractive weathered character that reflects its history.

Conclusion and Reproofing Tips

To sum it up, regularly reproofing your oilskin jacket restores its water resistance and breathability, prolongs its useful life, and refreshes its appearance. The frequency of reproofing will depend on how often you wear your jacket and in what conditions, but a good rule of thumb is to reproof at least once per year, or whenever you notice the jacket starting to absorb rather than repel water.

Some tips for reproofing:

  • Clean your jacket thoroughly before applying the wax dressing. Dirt and grime will impede the penetration of the wax.
  • Apply the wax evenly, focusing on seams, creases, and high-wear areas. A hairdryer can help soften the wax and improve penetration.
  • After waxing, use a cloth or sponge to remove excess wax and smooth the finish.
  • Hang your jacket to dry in a warm place. Avoid direct heat, as this can over-soften the wax.

With regular reproofing, your trusty oilskin jacket will keep you dry and comfortable through many adventures to come. It's a small investment of time and effort that pays big dividends in performance and longevity.

January 13, 2025 — melissa whillas