Oilskin coats have been trusted by outdoorsmen for centuries to provide rugged, waterproof protection from the elements. The dense cotton fabric is impregnated with oils and waxes that repel water while still allowing the material to breathe. However, with exposure and wear, the waterproofing properties of an oilskin coat can diminish over time. As an oilskin coat owner, there are important steps you should take to maintain and restore your coat's weatherproofing to keep it functional for many adventures to come.

Understanding How Oilskin Works

To grasp how to properly care for your coat, it helps to know a bit about how oilskin fabric functions. The cotton fibers are tightly woven to create a strong, durable material. The fabric is then saturated with a blend of oils and waxes, traditionally linseed oil. This oil permeates the weave, coating each fiber to create a water-resistant barrier.  

The oils also condition the cotton, preventing it from drying out and cracking. Notably, this weatherproofing is not a surface coating - it penetrates through the fabric itself. This allows the material to remain breathable while still shedding water. The oils and cotton work together synergistically.

However, with time and exposure to the elements, the oils will slowly dry out or wash away. The fabric may stiffen and you'll notice water soaking in rather than beading off. When this occurs, it's time to re-oil your coat. Thankfully, the process is straightforward with a few key tips.

Here Are The Tips to Reproofing Your Oilskin Coat:

  • Cleaning and Preparing Your Coat

Before re-oiling, your coat should be clean and dry. Brush off any dirt or debris. If needed, hand wash the coat in cold water with a gentle detergent and allow it to air dry completely. Avoid using harsh soaps or hot water which can strip away the existing oils.

Lay the coat flat or hang it in a well-ventilated area. Ensure you have adequate space and surface protection as the oiling process can get messy.

  • Choosing an Oil Dressing

There are a variety of oil dressings available designed specifically for restoring oilskin. Look for products containing a blend of natural oils and waxes - linseed oil, beeswax, and paraffin wax are common ingredients. Otter Wax and Filson Oil Finish Wax are two reputable options.

You can also make your own oil dressing. A 50/50 blend of boiled linseed oil and beeswax melted together creates an effective, all-natural weatherproofing solution. Avoid raw linseed oil as it can take a very long time to dry.

  • Applying the Oil

Whichever oil you choose, start with a small amount, around a tablespoon to begin. Using a clean cloth, work the oil into the fabric using small circular motions. Focus on seams, creases, and high-wear areas.

The key is applying a thin, even coat. The fabric should look damp but not soaked. Too much oil will saturate the fibers making the coat heavy and sticky. Allow ample time between coats for the oil to absorb into the fabric.

Continue applying thin coats until the entire garment has been covered and the fabric no longer absorbs oil. This may take several light applications. Wipe away any excess oil with a clean rag.

  • Drying and Curing

After oiling, hang the coat to dry in a warm, well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight or heat sources. Drying can take 24-48 hours depending on temperature and humidity. Turn pockets inside-out to ensure even drying.

The coat will darken as the oils are absorbed. A slight odor is normal and will dissipate with time. Once dry, the fabric will feel slightly stiff or waxy. With wear, the oils will further permeate the fibers and soften the material.

  • Maintaining Your Coat

With proper care, a re-oiled coat should maintain its water-resistance for a season or more of regular use. Retreat your coat annually or whenever you notice the fabric wetting out rather than repelling water.

In between oilings, avoid storing your coat folded or crumpled to prevent permanent creasing of the fabric. Hang it on a sturdy wooden hanger in a cool, dry place. After each use, allow the coat to air out and dry completely before putting it away.

By mindfully maintaining the oil in your coat's fabric, you'll ensure your trusty oilskin will keep you dry and comfortable in any weather for many years to come. Invest a little time and care into weatherproofing and your coat will serve you well on countless outdoor excursions.

January 10, 2025 — melissa whillas